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| The Most Common Winemaking Questions: Q: What happens if I use inadequate equipment? A: Winemaking equipment - such as pails, carboys and spoons - often
seems similar to items that may be around the home. However, in many cases,
proper winemaking equipment and utensils are made of special materials, and this
can influence your finished product. A: This one fools a lot of people, as it does seem at the outset that you'd want to get rid of the sediment first and then add the clearing agent, particularly when the wine in the carboy otherwise seems clear. The temptation is so great, many winemakers DO switch the steps themselves. This is not wrong - it's just less efficient, believe it or not. The clearing, or fining, agents used in Winexpert's wine kits, whether it be chitosan or isinglass, both act more efficiently in clearing wine when they have a base of sediment to begin with. The sediment acts as a trigger mechanism which sends the finings into action in clearing out the mix of proteins, pigments, phenolics, dead yeast, etc. Both the fining agents and the particles to clear out from the wine have either a positive or a negative charge. And just like in the movies, opposites attract. A negatively charged fining agent like bentonite will serve to bring together those particles having a positive charge, while positively charged fining agents like chitosan or isinglass will attract negatively charged particles. This process allows for the molecular weight structures of the particles to become larger: smaller particles join together to become larger particles, which in turn fall to the bottom of the carboy when their mass becomes great enough. If the fining agents do not 'find' enough particles present in the wine must to join together into larger particles, the clearing process may stall, as there will not be enough small particles present to conglomerate into the larger particles which will fall out. Small particles on their own will remain suspended in the must, and the fining's efficiency is reduced. This is why you must thoroughly stir the sediment when adding package #4, as it effectively mixes the fining agents and the particles together to start the clearing process. Resist the urge to jump the gun on transferring, or racking, the wine! Trust
the method behind the madness of Winexpert's instructions, and stir up that
sediment with confidence! A: Re-using plastic pails from other sources, like buckets that previously held food products, is always a mistake. The food odours will have sunk into the plastic, and will taint the wine. Also, plastic items not intended for food purposes, such as brand-new garbage pails must never be used for winemaking. The pigments, UV protectants and plasticisers (chemicals used to keep the plastic from becoming brittle) will leach into the wine, and could affect your health. Your retailer will be able to direct you to equipment appropriate for
winemaking. Saving a few dollars by using suspect equipment is not worth it. A: 90% of all winemaking failures can be traced to a lapse in cleaning or sanitation. (Cleaning is removing visible dirt and residue from your equipment. Sanitising is treating that equipment with a chemical that will eliminate, or prevent the growth of, spoilage organisms). Everything that comes in contact with your wine must be clean, and properly
sanitised, from the thermometer to the carboy, from the siphon hose to the bung
and airlock. One single lapse could cause a failure of your batch. A: Wine kit instructions may seem to be long and complicated, and the urge is to simplify them, or to standardise steps between different kits. This is always a mistake, for several reasons. First, the kit instructions are based both on sound winemaking techniques, and empirical trials. Development of the specific steps employed in the instructions came about through both learned theoretical winemaking practices and through repeated wine laboratory testing. Following the instructions to a 'T' affords the maximum opportunity for success. Second, if your kit fails to ferment correctly, or clear sufficiently, there may be no easy way to correct it if you have not followed the directions. This is sometimes a problem in that kit instructions are very different from
those for wines made from fresh grapes. Trying to use the techniques described
in winemaking textbooks will usually lead to problems: wine kits are another
kettle of fish entirely. A: Water is not quite as critical as many people think. In fact, if
your water is fit to drink, it is usually just fine for winemaking. However, if
your water has a lot of hardness or a high mineral content, especially iron, it
could lead to permanent haze or off flavours. Also, if your house is equipped
with a salt-exchange water softener, that water can't be used for winemaking. If
you're in doubt, go ahead and use bottled water to make your wine: you'll
appreciate the difference. A: If you look at the instructions in your wine kit (and please, do), they will likely instruct you to sprinkle your packet of yeast directly on to the must. Yet if you read the yeast package (and many winemaking textbooks) they recommend rehydrating the yeast. If the objective is to deliver the maximum number of yeast cells to the must, which technique is best? It turns out that the answer is not as simple as one or the other, but the main point is that rehydration is not really necessary. You can rehydrate your yeast if you absolutely want to, but be sure to do it accurately and precisely, as explained further below. The rest of us will tear open the package and dump it in, and spend the extra time sampling our last batch! When performed correctly, rehydrating gives the highest live cell counts, and the quickest, most thorough fermentation. The catch is, it has to be done precisely correctly. Lalvin EC 1118 champagne yeast, for instance, asks you to add the yeast to 10 times its weight in water at 40-43°C (104-109°F). Breaking it down, the amount of '10 times' is important if you're trying to maximise live cell counts. That's because the yeast is dried on a substrate of nutrients and sugars. At a ratio of 10:1 water/yeast, the osmotic pressure allows for maximum nutrient uptake (osmotic pressure is influenced by the dissolved solids in the water, like nutrients and sugars). If too much water is used, the yeast will grow only sluggishly. If too little water is used, the cells may burst from the flood of liquid and nutrients forced into them. Secondly, the temperature range is inflexible. The outer integument of a yeast cell is made up of two layers of fatty acids. These layers soften best in warm water, much as greasy film will come off of dishes best in warm water. Once it has softened up, it will allow the passage of nutrients and waste products in and out of the cell much more efficiently. If the water isn't warm enough, the cell won't soften. If it's too warm, generally anywhere above 52°C (125.6°F) the yeast cell will cook and die. The next thing you have to worry about is temperature shear. Yeast is terrifically sensitive to environmental conditions. If it goes too quickly from a favourable temperature to a less favourable one, weakened cells may die, and others may go dormant, in an attempt to ride out the temperature shift. This reduces the numbers of live, viable cells available to ferment the must, and gives spoilage organisms a chance to get a foothold, and potentially ruin your wine. So if you are rehydrating your yeast, you'll have to wait as the yeast cools to within two degrees of your must temperature before adding it: accuracy counts! On the other hand, simply dumping the yeast onto the top of the must should
result in lower cell counts. Empirical evidence shows this isn't the case: the
yeast appear to know what they're doing. Generally, a five-gram packet of yeast
will have less than a six-hour lag phase on an average wine kit. This is
perfectly acceptable, and isn't long enough to allow spoilage organisms to get a
foothold in your wine. Plus, it's a heck of a lot simpler than going through the
rehydrating process, fraught as it is with risks. A: Kit instructions tell you to ferment your wine within a specific
temperature range. We recommend 18 to 24°C (65°F to 75°F). Yeast thrives
between these temperatures. This is one of the situations where Winexpert's
instructions are different than commercial winemaking techniques. In commercial
wineries, some white wines are fermented cooler than this, sometimes below 55°F.
Commercial wineries have the luxury of taking a year (or two, or three) before
they bottle their wines, so they don't have a problem. For the home winemaker
though, if the fermentation area is too cool the wine will ferment very slowly.
This will lead to an excess of CO2 gas (fizz) in the wine, and it may not be
ready to stabilise and fine on the appropriate day. Even worse, the kind of
fining agents included with Winexpert kits don't work well at temperatures
outside of the 18 to 24°C (65°F to 75°F) range. Below 17°C (64°F) your wine
kit may not clear at all! A: Sulphite and sorbate - the stabilisers in the kit - work to inhibit
yeast activity. If, by mistake, you add them too early your wine may not finish
fermenting. If you add the sorbate on day one, the yeast will never become
active, and the kit will not ferment. A: Some people believe that they are allergic to sulphites, and want to leave them out of their kits. While this is their option, it's a bad idea. True sulphite allergies are terrifically rare, and if someone has a reaction to drinking wine, it's almost always due to some other cause (for a complete discussion on this topic, see our handout "Sulphites: the Facts"). Besides, yeast make sulphites themselves during fermentation, so no wine can ever be sulphite-free, no matter what. Without added sulphites the kit will oxidise and spoil very rapidly. It will start to go off in less than 4 weeks, and be undrinkable in less than three months. Also, if the sulphite is left out, but the sorbate is added, the wine will be attacked by lactic bacteria, which will convert the sorbate into the compound hexadienol, which smells like rotting geraniums and dead fish. The bottom line is this: if you do not add the sulphite to the kit, neither
your retailer, nor Winexpert can guarantee the wine, so think carefully before
you do it. A: On day one, the kit needs to be stirred very vigorously. This is because the juice and concentrate are very viscous, and don't mix easily with water. Even if it seems that dumping the contents of the bag into the primary with the water has done the job, it hasn't. The wine lies on the bottom of the pail, with a layer of water on top, throwing off any gravity readings, and making the yeast work extra hard. When it comes time to stabilise and fine the wine, it has to be stirred
vigorously enough to drive off all of the CO2 it accumulated during
fermentation. This is because the dissolved gas will attach to the fining
agents, preventing them from settling out. You need to stir hard enough to make
the wine foam, and keep stirring until it will no longer foam. Only then will
the gas be driven off so the fining agents can work their magic. A: Wine kits are ready to bottle in 28 or 45 days; they're not ready to drink! If you really, really can't wait, the minimum time before a kit tastes good is about one month. This is long enough for the wine to get over the shock of bottling, and begin opening up to release its aromas and flavours. Three months is much better, and the wine will show most of its character at this point. For most whites, however, and virtually all reds, six months is needed to smooth out the wine and allow it to express mature character. Heavy reds will continue to improve for at least a year, rewarding your patience with delicious bouquet. Think of your wine like a gourmet meal: you wouldn't take your omelette out
of a pan before it was half-cooked, and you wouldn't want to eat a cake that was
only half-baked, so let the magic ingredient (time, of course!) do its work! For
further information on ageing, click on the section called 'Ageing and Storage'
within this Answer Box section. A: Yes. Wherever Winexpert's instructions call for the addition of a
certain item, you are required to add ALL of the packages of that item found in
the kit. This goes for packages of oak, fining agents like isinglass, and so on. Q: What recommendations do you have on storing your bottled wines? A: Bottled wines are dramatically affected by the environment they are stored in. In fact, proper storage conditions are so important in ensuring that your wine is at peak quality when opened, they should be considered the last unwritten step in the winemaking process. Some wines are more susceptible to poor storage conditions. Generally, white wines - particularly off-dry wines and champagne - are more frail than reds. Grape variety can also make a difference; for example, Cabernet Sauvignon wines are generally more resilient than Pinot Noirs. However, no matter what the wine, it always pays to minimize the risks associated with bottle storage: Temperature Constant temperature is the key. By causing the wine inside the bottle to expand and contract, swings in temperature rapidly ruin bottled wine. Ideal cellar temperature is 45 - 55 F (7 - 13 C). At lower temperatures, maturation is slowed, though more complexity is allowed to develop. Wine could be safely stored to within a degree or two of freezing, but it would take decades to develop. On the other hand, wines can be stored at up to 68 F, where they will mature quite rapidly. Higher temperatures than this will quickly damage the wine. Light Sunlight and ultraviolet light (ie. fluorescent lamps) are as bad for wine as excessive heat, but are problems usually much easier to overcome. Though most wines are protected to some degree by colored glass bottles, place wines in areas away from direct light or cover them with a blanket. Humidity Some degree of humidity is beneficial for long term storage, to ensure that the exposed end of the cork does not dry out and allow oxygen into the bottle. Beware of air conditioners, as they actually suck moisture out of the air. Ideally, relative humidity should be between 60 - 75%. Humidity higher than that encourages mould growth in your storage area (not to mention label deterioration!). Movement Wine does not take well to constant movement or vibration (particularly if there is sediment present), thus a secure storage space is a must. Don't put your bottles next to the washing machine, or in a storage area where they will have to be moved often to reach other items. Secure storage should also mean storing bottles horizontally, allowing constant contact of the wine with the cork, preventing the cork from drying out and letting air in. A simple check of all environmental influences in or near your storage area is advised. For example, areas such as garages or attics, which seem cool, may be subject to temperature fluctuations due to lack of insulation. A good option is to insulate a small room, large cupboard or area under the stairs, void of any heat sources like a water pipe or a boiler. Periodically checking the area with a thermometer is a good idea. A good way to do this is to put a floating thermometer in a one litre jug of water, and leave it covered in the space for 24 hours. This will let the water stabilize to the ambient temperature, and give you an accurate reading. Allowing for the ageing of your finished wine in an environment which helps
to preserve its finer qualities will pay big dividends in ensuring that you will
have the best wine possible to enjoy with friends and family. Q: How long should a newly bottled wine be aged before it’s best to consume it? A: It's tempting to start consuming your wine right after bottling it, and in fact, there are many wines that can be consumed right after bottling and be everything you want them to be. But if you really want to maximize your wine's potential, a little time left alone in the bottle can make the difference. With age, most red wines which begin life with obvious fruity aromas and some degree of astringency ('bite') will develop softer, gentler, more complex aromas and flavours. The wines become richer, as the fruit mellows and the astringent tannins relax and contribute to the body and character. Many white wines also benefit with age. Whites intended for ageing may display exceedingly high acid levels which will soften over time, uncovering wonderful textures and flavours. Components of wines differ by variety or blend, and thus react differently to ageing. Some wines require longer ageing periods than others. For example:
Different factors exert influence on the rate of ageing and can contribute to a better ageing potential: Storage - A very big factor, discussed in more detail under Storage (see below) Cork quality - The longer and less porous the cork, the better the oxygen barrier, extending ageing potential. Ullage - The amount of headspace in the bottle. Leaving 1 inch is best. Sulphite level - Higher concentrations protect from oxidation. So how should you treat the ageing period for different Brew King products? The answer depends on many factors. For example, using a long, high quality cork or adding some extra sulphite at bottling will extend the maximum age period. Thus, use the following as a general guideline only:
TM CHWTA - Used Under License TM* Brew King Limited Go to Top Q: Where can I find kit instructions for all Winexpert brands? A: Winexpert offers online instruction sets for all of its brands as
PDF files. Selection and Selection
International Wine Series Q: Can I carbonate my Island Mist, and if so, how should I do it? A: You can carbonate Island Mist products, in fact the commercial versions are often very slightly carbonated ('frizzante') in the bottle. You need a refrigerator and an artificial carbonation set-up to do this, as they can't be bottle-carbonated like homebrew beer can. The sorbate prevents re-fermentation, and if you omit the sorbate, the bottle will over-carbonate and leak through the corks or break bottles. Q: Can you boost the alcohol content of Island Mist? A: Island Mist is intended to be a light, refreshing social beverage. Consumption patterns on the commercial side show that people tend to have more than one serving of Mist drinks, and are often consuming it as an alternative to beer or other fruit-juice based cocktails. If the alcohol content is too high, then you have to think twice about having that second glass by the pool. However Island Mist kits can indeed be "boosted". Add approximately 2.2 lbs. (1 kilo) of corn sugar at the beginning of the fermentation, and that will bring the original gravity to between 1.080 and 1.085, and the finished alcohol content to 11% or so. The Mist will taste "harsher' the normal and may require more aging before it is drinkable as the correct starting gravity version. Q: Island Mist wines are sweet, is there any danger of re-fermentation in the bottle? A: Since our F-packs contain sugar you must ensure that you do not add it to the wine too early. It is imperative that the specified number of days have elapsed between stabilization and the addition of the F-pack, in order for the sorbate to have fully neutralized the yeast. If the F-pack is added too early, there is a slight possibility that re-fermentation can occur, but this is completely avoidable by simply following the instructions and maintaining good sanitation practices. Also, 2 consistent S.G. readings taken 2-3 apart, ensure finished fermentation. Q: Dispelling common myths about Sulphites! A: From carbonic maceration to malolactic fermentation, the world of
wine making can be as complex as a good bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. With the many
intricacies of wine making has come a long list of contradictions including
those surrounding sulphites. Many of you may be wondering exactly what sulphites
are and how they may affect our health, so here are some answers to your most
common questions. The FDA approved amount of sulphite is 70-ppm in dry table wine. Brew King/Winexperts wine kits contain 15 to 20 ppm at bottling. Even wines that have not had sulphites added contain sulphites that are naturally produced during the fermentation process. A: Did you know that 1 out of every 20 bottles of wine can be spoiled
by cork taint? Some facts about Nomacorc:
Nomacorc is simply a better closure. Made with an innovative co-extrusion process, Nomacorc assures consistency and quality. When you look at a Nomacorc, the center has a cellular structure that allows oxygen to pass through it, much like a natural cork. This encourages the wines to age as though they were sealed with a natural cork. What appears to be a coating around the Nomacorc is actually bonded to the center through the co-extrusion process. The inside and outside are made together, allowing the Nomacorc to seal thoroughly and to be removed easily. |
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